Wednesday, June 10, 2020

Charming and Quaint Banavasi (Karnataka, India) - The forgotten, royal capital of the glorious Kadamba dynasty

Important Note

  1. Check the COVID 19 travel restrictions of the place online before undertaking your sojourn.
  2. Kindly note that the Distance of places, Prices, Hotel rates, Temperature, and other figures may change according to the conditions prevailing at the time of your visit. There may even be short cuts and extra conveyance available that you can avail of when traveling locally. Tourists must conduct their own research before traveling and take due diligence on rates & distances from authorized online sources. All the facts and information provided in relation to the place is for my own personal use and collected from different online sources and collated together. For more details, Click this link DISCLAIMER.

Steeped in antiquity and flourishing with architectural remnants lies Banvasi (Ancient name: Jayantipura, Vanvasi, kokanapura, Bansa), a temple town in Sirsi, Uttara Karnataka district. Banvasi is a sleepy pilgrim town situated in the Malenadu region in between Shimoga and Sirsi, encircled by the serene Varadha river. The name Banvasi means 'nestled in the jungles' and is situated in the rain forest of Western Ghats.

It is the oldest Indian city after Varanasi and is considered a religious hub due to the spiritual heritage all around. In its heydays, Banvasi's charm resonated all over the world. Religious minded students flocked here from as far as Goa & Maharastra for their Vedic studies. Even the Greek Philosopher Ptolemy mentioned a town called 'Bansa' in South India after being enamored by its natural beauty. The famous Kannada literary stalwart Pampa too found his calling here and composed of his greatest epics at this place. There is a garden/groove dedicated to him named 'Pampa Vatika/Vana where you can find exotic medicinal flora and fauna. The history & culture of Kadambas in Banvasi have no parallels in the whole of Karnataka due to the unique heritage located here. Although there are numerous heritage places in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Andra Pradesh, Banvasi's charm lies in its remote stillness. The place was a perfect locale for religious studies due to its uninterrupted ambiance. Even today, Banvasi has maintained its legacy of being untouched by modernity. But with the passage of time and rush of tourists, few lodges and eateries have sprung up in its vicinity. Here you can find a lone SBI Branch for your financial dealings.  The Kadamba dynasty got its moniker from the Kadamb tree (Neolamarckia Cadamba) which blossomed here.


The Kadamb dynasty was founded by Mayurasharma and held its sway in most parts of Karnataka, including NW-Mysore for over two centuries. Goa & Maharashtra too had tasted the culture of this famous dynasty. The Kadamba base in Goa was at Chandrapur (present-day Chandor, Margao, Goa) and extended till Goa Velha, Pilar, Old Goa up to Panjim. Till today you can find crumbling vestiges of the Kadamb architecture at Goa Velha(a port wall), Royal Road (Rajbid at Goa Velha till Panelim, Old Goa). The Kadamb rulers were excellent statesmen, cultural devotees, and architects, so you will find plenty of architectural remnants in all the places they ruled. 


The hillock in Pilar, Goa was one of the locations where the ASI excavated the vestiges of the Kadamb dynasty. Banvasi was a flourishing trade center in olden days and traded in indigenous works like Terracota, Bead-making, mud artifacts, clay designs, woodwork, carpentry, basket weaving, pottery, tools, and other traditional occupations. The theatrical dance form 'Yakshagana' finds its base here and you will find mask making as one of the occupations of the villagers. Banvasi is famous for its king and queen pineapples, jaggery, jackfruit, paddy, plantains, spices, ginger, wheat, sugarcane, areca nut produce. The Gudigar community is adept in making Basingas (headgear used during a wedding), garlands, flower making, sandalwood carvings, baskets, and sculptural works. This temple town and its myriad lanes are famous for its two markets - Santipete for selling village produce and Kanchipete for displaying copper wares.  

The Hoysalas & Chalukya heritage is drawn from the architectural splendor of Kadambas at Banvasi. The annual December traditional festival, Kadambotsav, draws many artists, cultural enthusiasts, craftsmen, folk dancers, dance troupes, writers, classical artists, and heritage lovers from all over South India. If you want to experience the slice of rustic rural ambiance, then you should give this hamlet a try. The biggest and the tallest temple Rath/chariot can be found here made totally of pure Red Sanders (Raktha Chandana). 


Banvasi Temple
 
     
(Picture CreditNo machine-readable author provided. Clt13 assumed (based on copyright claims). 
/ CC BY-SA (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)  

Before closing the trail, I would also love to mention the temple for which Banvasi is most acclaimed for and has catapulted it to international fame and reviews - The Madhukeshwara Temple. Not mentioning this piece of history would be an injustice to the Kadamba history. Famous and untouched by the ravages of time, the pillars of the temple have withstood the severe climate and still standing strong. This reminds us of the ingenuity of the artisans. You can also locate a Jain temple in the vicinity of this temple. 

The name Madhukeshwara is derived from the golden-hued lingam inside the Sanctum Sanctorium. The hallowed precincts of the temple instantly take you back through time travel to the glorious era past by. The serene surroundings and cube-shaped residential quarters at this temple has a uniqueness that can be felt only by staying here. Meditating here for a month can be truly rejuvenating for a wannabe truth seeker. The temple roofs are etched with intricate carvings of animals, flowers, and other designs. Be sure to encounter two huge pachyderms standing majestically at the entrance. Inside you will find a 7-feet tall monolithic statue of Nandi Bull laying down in an imposing manner. 

One of the interesting features of Madhukeshwara temple is the exquisitely designed stone cot and the Triloka Mantapa which depicts the three worlds succinctly. A huge bell made of pure Panchadhatu metal can also be found inside. Words can't describe the beauty of the temple and the skill of the artisans who constructed it.

How to get there  ----->

Domestic Tourists:

  • The nearest railroad is at Shimoga,112 km away. 

International Tourists:

  • The closest airport is at Mangalore, 250 km away. You can travel by bus or cab from there. The closest town is Sirsi, around 20 km.

Nearest Petrol Bunk: Sirsi, 20 km away.

 KSRTC runs direct bus services from Bangalore, 374 km away. You can inquire at the KSRTC Counter in Bangalore if you happen to travel from there.

 Best time to visit:  Sept-Feb is the best time to visit. Dec is the time when the state govt. organizes the Kadambotsav, the cultural festival, depicting the Kadamba history and Feb during Mahashivratri.

 Nearby Attractions:

  1. Sahasralinga (1000 linga spectacle at one place)
  2. Unchalli falls
  3. Jog falls
  4. Marikamba temple  in Ramanbail area of Sirsi (Very famous temple dedicated to Goddess Marikamba, a manifestation of Durga, also known as 'Marigudi',  frequented by hordes of domestic tourists to have a glimpse of a eight armed figure of Goddess & huge bull inside)
  5. Dandeli Forest reserve

 Lodges / Accommodations:

  • There are few budget homestays with reasonable accommodation nearby. The Banvasi Kendra has a few options.

Hotels and Restaurants:

  • Although there are not many dining options you can find small eateries selling snacks. And a few small hotels serving delicious rice dumplings, pineapple drinks, etc.

Banvasi Fort was called Jaldurg or 'water fort' due to water on three sides and a mud-brick wall on the other end. Currently, the fort lies in a rumbled state. Many reviews on Tripadvisor are testimony to the glorious history of Banvasi. Digging into its glorious past, one will find many residues like Gold coins, inscriptions at Talgudda(Shimoga), fort wall and moat, turbulent rivers and gurgling waterfalls, and Gudnapur palace located 5 km away. You should also visit Veerabhadra temple & lake in Gudnapur which is simply breathtaking. What remains now are just memories but the beauty of Banvasi will 'NEVER FADE AWAY'


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