Tranquebar - Revisiting the Scandivanian Legacy of Denmark at India's Southernmost Tip

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"The bygone times leave in its trail eternal memories of heritage structures and customs". 

    [Picture Credits: "Fort Dansborg at Tranquebar, built by Danish Admiral Ove Gedde, in 1620." by Eagersnap, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 ] 

Think of colonial powers that ruled India, and the Big 3 always come to the fore - British, Portuguese, and the French. Not many are familiar with the Scandivanian connection to India. Yes, the Danes, native of Denmark ruled some parts of India for a considerable period of time - more specifically at the start of the 16th century (1620-1845). 

The Danish East India Company merchants and ships arrived from 1616 onwards and dropped their anchors on the Coromandel coast(Tamil Nadu), Balasore(Orissa), Andamans, Sri Lanka, Puducherry(Karaikal coast), Surat(Gujarat), Cochin(Kerala) and Serampore(Hooghly, West Bengal) for the lucrative trading business of spices - chiefly Cardamom, pepper, and cinnamon. The Southern coast of India also witnessed the French connection in all its glory, at Puducherry. Even today, you will find tree-lined avenues of French designs in Puducherry which is a delight to watch.

Although they ruled a few places in India, the Danish East India company left behind a stunning architectural trail that consisted of golden pink-hued forts, whitewashed churches, baroque houses, and majestic trading centers, colonies, and warehouses. 

The two significant trading ports which bear strong testimony to Danish presence were - Traquebar in Tamil Nadu and Serampore in Hoogly, West Bengal. The Danes were full-bodied traders and merchants and their intention on setting foot in India was to establish trading outposts that linked all the way to Denmark. 

It was in 1616-1620 that King Christian IV sent his envoy and admiral Ove Djedde to set an economic base in India. Ove Djedde with his keen insight sensed an opportunity in this place to be an important trading port and received a land grant from the Raghunatha Nayak, ruler of Thanjavur Kingdom. Subsequently, he built a strategic and important landmark overlooking the ocean which was called 'Fort Dansburg(60metres long and 11 meters wide)'. 

At its height of power, this trapezoidal-shaped fort(closed on Fridays) served as the residence and a headquarters for the Governer and various high ranking officials of the Danish East India company. This imposing 400-year old mustard hued Fort Dansburg also housed a barrack, church, warehouse, storerooms, mess, minting press, merchants quarters, jail, chaplain house, and an administrative center. It is next only to Fort Kronborg in size of all the Danish forts  Currently, it is converted into a museum that displays artifacts and relics of the colonial era. The museum also undertakes walking tours to understand the historical significance of the fort.

The antique collections on display are Chinese porcelains, manuscripts, steatite lamps, tea jars, curios, rare Maratha paintings, coins, fish bones, woodwork, stucco figures, glass items, terracotta, stones, swords, whale skeleton, and cannonballs. The fort was secured by the sea on the eastern and western sides. To keep it well guarded it was surrounded by a moat and access to it was through a drawbridge.

Another colonial remnant here is the 'Bungalow by the Beach', a residence for the Governor who was titled 'Opporhoved' meaning the 'supreme chief'. After the exit of Danes, the colonial bungalow was sold to the British East India company who then passed it to the local Nadar family who resided for many years before finally transferring it to the Taj Group. It also served as a summer house for the British collector after the treaty with the Danes. 

[Picture Credits: "Bungalow on the Beach, Neemrana Hotels, in Tranquebar, Tamil Nadu" by Koshy Koshy, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY 2.0]

Due to its exotic value, the property was acquired once again by Neemrana Hotels, a heritage group in 2000, who opened the property in 2004 after extensive renovations. One striking feature of this property is the rare collection of architectural items of the colonial-era which can be accessed from the verandah of the hotel. The Fort and Pandya temple is in close vicinity of the property also. It is one of the most stunning and distinct of all Nagapattinam hotels, which is evident from the resplendent interiors. 

Extending further it includes a library, exhibition area, shop selling artifacts, tamil restaurant, and a tourist guiding center. 

A private pool extending towards the sea and surrounded by a sun deck affirms your privileged position in the cosmos like none other. 

Coming to the religious structures, New Jerusalem Church on Kings Street was constructed by the Danish missionary of Danish - Halle mission, Bartholomaeus Ziegenbalg in 1718. 

The Danish East India Company suffered heavy financial setbacks due to constant attacks by the Portuguese and British East India Company to establish their hegemony over the spice trade. The Danes could never get a strong foothold in India except at Tamil Nadu and West Bengal.

The Danes traded mostly in Salpetre, silk, sugar, cotton, spice, and salt. Today we are going to unravel Traquebar -  the hidden stronghold of the Danes in Tamil Nadu which few people are aware of. 

[Picture Credits: "Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg monument" by Michael Gaebler, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY 3.0]

Traquebar(Trankebar) or Tharangambadi is a town in the Mayiladuthurai district in Nagapattinam off the Bay of Bengal on the Coromandel coast. Tranquebar literally means 'The Land of the Singing Waves'.  Traquebar was a famous trading port till the 18th century before it was ceded to the British after the Dutch winded up their colonies The town has retained its Scandivanian influence through colonial street names like Kings Street, Queen Street, Admiral Street, etc.. 

Tranquebar true to its name lies in a serene landmass at the meeting of Kauveri and Bay of Bengal and was a potpourri of cultures - Danish, English, German & French coexisted in the peaceful town. 

The coexistence of different cultures in this scenic town gave it a colorful hue that is existing to date. 

The Dutch were very tolerant of all religions here and resided in their own colony by the ocean unmindful of the chatter and commotion in the mainland. 

[Picture Credits: "Zion Church" by Mukul Faiz, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0]

In its halcyon days, the Tranquebar region housed several important landmarks notably Fort Dansburg constructed from the land grant given by Tanjore ruler Raghunath Nayak to Dutch nobleman Ove Djedde, New Jerusalem Church built by the Protestant missionaries, and the Zion Church built by the Lutheran missionaries from Germany. 

Many Dutch ships landed in Tranquebar to trade and barter and got a cordial welcome from the locals. 

[Picture Credits: "Danish Church" by Chenthil, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0]

The town gate('Landporten' in Danish) extends a warm welcome through a royal danish insignia on top. Relive the old world charm when the Danes ruled through the historic ruins and peppery ocean views. Along the far western end of Kings street, there is a marine museum also called Danish Indian cultural center for the marine buffs to visit. The everyday life in thatched roofs dwellings coupled with the ever swaying palm trees nearby, the saltiness of the ocean water, and soothing Tamil music in the background evokes the wonder of how the town has stood firm so long after experiencing the vagaries of nature.    

[Picture Credits: Murali poduval, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons]

For the history enthusiasts, the town is kept in its former glory through the initiative of INTACH and Danish Bestseller, two of the foundations at the forefront.   

It is located at a similar distance of 15kms from Karaikal, Puducherry, and Chola town of Pumpuhar and around 7 hr drive from capital Chennai to the south. 

[Picture Credits: "Restored Goldsmith Street in Tranquebar" by Mukulfaiz, Wikipedia is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0]

Famous attractions near Tranquebar:

• Subramanya Temple, Perambur - Located on the outskirts of Tranquebar is one of the most famous Murugan Temple.
• Zion Church  - The first renowned Protestant church set up in 1701 by the German missionaries.
• Brethrens Garden or Governors Mansion - Located in Porayar near Tranquebar. It was built by the Moravian Brethrens missionaries from Saxony, Germany. 
• Wildlife Sanctuary (Point Calimere which also has a lighthouse with the same name) - 100 km from Tranquebar. Spot wildlife like Blackbucks and exotic migratory birds at this location. 
• Goldsmith Street - Old colonnaded row houses and villas lined up in succession. They are renovated by the government and look charming. People can be mistaken to take this as a locality of Goldsmiths. :). The first printing press & paper press built by the Danes is also located here. 
• Uppanar river - Ideal for bird watchers, 10 mins drive from the Fort. A small inhabited island has some lunch options if you happen to visit. 
• Masilamani Nathar Temple - This 700-year-old wonder of the Pandyan kingdom combines unique dual designs of Chinese and Tamil architecture. It is located at the poolside of the Neemrana property - The Bungalow by the beach. A lone Nandi statue looks imposing outside the temple. 
• Chidambaram - This marvelous spiritual spot of the Hindus is 45kms away which is home to the Nataraja - A dancing form of Lord Shiva.
• Vailankanni Basilica - 40kms away from the main town, this Lourdes of the east as faithful call, is a popular pilgrim spot not only for Christians but people from all walks of life. 
• Dargah of Hazrat Meeran - A famous spiritual center for the Muslims whose tank water is thought to carry healing properties. 
• Danish Cemetery - Forlorn and secluded white plastered cemetry housing the remains of Danes soldiers and royalty, on the Kavalamettu Street (on the opposite side of Kings Street)
• Peter Anklers colonial house 
• Zeigenbalg museum - Located in Admiral street 

Getting There:

Air Route: There are flights from every major metro to Trichy, which is the closest place to Tranquebar (130kms / 5hrs approx). Travelers flying from Chennai can take direct flights from Chennai to Trichy. For exploring the scenic route, take a taxi which will debit you by 3000 bucks. 

Rail Route: The closest stations are Nagapattinam (35kms) and Chidambaram (40kms). Mayilduthurai is another close railhead. 

By Road:  It takes approx 7 hrs in traffic to travel from Chennai to Traquebar. There are Government buses from Chennai Bus Terminus and luxury private operators who charge double the rate of Government buses. Taxis are exorbitant and cost upwards of 4000 / -. (Rates may vary) 

Route No. 324 bus travels from the Chennai bus stand to Tanquebar and costs around 350 and takes a total of  7hrs. From Pondicherry it takes around 4 hrs, Nagapattinam around 1 hr, Karaikal around 1/2 hr, so you can plan your schedule accordingly based on which town you are in. You will also encounter Cuddalore and Chidambaram, two holy towns along the bus route via East coast road. 

Best time to travel: 

August - March is the most pleasant period to travel. But be ready to face cyclones and rain fury also during the monsoons. So it would be preferable for tourists to visit the town after rains to spare you from the rain gods' wrath.

How to Explore this Danish Delight: 

The best and convenient way is to rent a bicycle, pedal bikes, or walk lazily and explore.  The scan and go type of tourist can hail a cab to visit religious places and nearby landmarks. 

Except for Puducherry(100 km), all other towns like Nagapattinam, Chettinad, Mayiladuthurai, and Vailankanni are within 40kms distance to Traquebar. 

Accomodations / Hotel options: 

There are plenty of guest houses, lodges, budget stays, rustic resthouses, and luxury options in close vicinity of Tranquebar. Neemrana is a boutique property that offers splendid sea views. It also takes you on an old-world tour with its lofty interiors and vintage furniture. Here on offer are Intercontinental and South Indian dishes.

GateHouse Hotels(3/4 km) is another option just inside the old city. It has rich Tamil interiors and Danish exteriors. 

Hotel Nippon is a colonial-style property just 1 km from the beach. Also, check-in Nayak House and Tamil Nadu House which are run by the Neemrana Group. 

Finally, check out Expedia.co.in for pocket-friendly deals atTharamgambadi. 

This link lists all the closest hotels in Traquebar: https://www.yatra.com/hotels/hotels-near-tranquebar-in-nagapattinam

Feast on the Go: 

Looking to dine, drink, and make merry? Then Hotel Chettinad, a local favorite is a must-visit with its signature Chettinad chicken curry and Arabic dishes. 

Hotel Kandaas is a fully vegetarian hotel with delectable dining options. The latter is located in the Karaikal area of Puducherry. 

Hot Tip: You can get awesome deals by searching Google using the term ' Clicktripz hotel deals'. Once in Cliktripz.com enter the search term 'Tharangambadi' and the date range of booking.

For the newbies who want to take a guided virtual tour, the 360-degree panoramic virtual map from Tamil Nadu Tourism is a handy tool. Get detailed directions, navigate through colonial landmarks, and choose the itinerary as per your whims, all by a click of the button.  

Time remains standstill in Tranquebar. True to its name, Tranquebar rhymes like tranquility and it is indeed a serene area. I really admire the ingenuity of the Danish East India Company to select such a wonderful location. 

Tranquebar is one of the most gifted locations due to the floating of the thickest ozone layer, which is known to prolong life and drain away the stress from the tired urban body. One visit and you will discover the most enchanting experience of your lifetime. 

Soak in the sun rays, feel the sea breeze caress your tired urban body, and relive your romantic fantasy when night sets in - Tranquebar has all the ingredients of a honeymoon destination. 

Tranquebar is a haven for the laid back traveler who likes to saunter along the beach. Open your book, laze around on the rocking chair, watch the silent waves kiss the craggy rocks, the colorful boats at a distance, all these are just a few of the options to explore in Tranquebar.

For the night lovers, sitting on the fort bastions at twilight watching the waves hits the gigantic boulders is an experience of a lifetime. Get drifted with your myriad thoughts as you watch the time fly past. 

Hidden in plain sight just next to the Mayiladuthar area, lies the quaint town of Tranquebar, which will leave you not only flummoxed by its beauty but healthy as well. 

If I have to describe Traquebar in few words it would be - Magical, Delightful & an Idyllic oasis by the ocean. 

Although the Danish asked for only 5 by 3 miles from the Tanjore king, they etched their place in the hearts of all in Tranquebar.